Key cosmetic ingredients to monitor

Key cosmetic ingredients to monitor for regulatory changes in the EU

As we’ve seen already in our previous two articles, the EU cosmetic regulatory landscape is constantly evolving, with several ingredients under scrutiny for safety concerns. Here are key updates on ingredients that we think you should be watching closely.

Cannabidiol (CBD)

On the 22nd January, the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) issued a mandate to assess the maximum concentration of CBD and Delta- 9-tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) (when present as a contaminant in CBD) that is considered safe when  used in cosmetic products. Their opinion is expected to follow in a 12 month timeframe. 

Tea Tree Oil

Tea tree oil, valued for its anti-microbial properties, was recommended for classification by the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) as a category 1B reprotoxic substance in December 2023. This could lead to a future ban in cosmetics, so brands should monitor these developments. The SCCS mandate has been issued to address potential safe limits when used as an anti-seborrheic and anti-microbial agent in rinse-off and leave-on cosmetic products. The outcome of this review is pending.

Salicylic Acid : Children’s Exposure

The SCCS published a draft opinion on 13 January 2025, expressing concerns over the safety of salicylic acid in products for children aged 3-10 years and that further restrictions are recommended for this age group. The opinion is open for public comments until 10 March 2025.

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (EHMC)

EHMC, used as a UV filter, is under review by the SCCS due to potential genotoxicity and endocrine-disrupting properties. The SCCS has not reached a conclusion on its safety, and the draft opinion was open for comments until 17 January 2025.

Talc

Talc has been classified as a Carcinogenic 1B substance by ECHA, which could lead to a ban unless an exemption to the Cosmetics Regulation ban on CMRs is granted. This could affect cosmetic products that contain talc, particularly in powders and body products.

Triphenyl Phosphate

Triphenyl phosphate, commonly used as a ‘plasticiser’, has been added to the Candidate List of Substances of Very High Concern (SVHC) due to its endocrine-disrupting properties to the environment. Following a negative opinion by the SCCS, triphenyl phosphate is expected to be banned for use in cosmetics in the near future.

How We Can Help

With these ingredients under regulatory scrutiny, it’s essential for cosmetic brands to stay informed and adjust formulations accordingly to ensure continuous compliance with EU regulations. We are here to support you, please do get in touch today if you have any questions or concerns about the changing landscape and how these potential regulation changes will be reflected in the UK!

Next week in our final instalment of the ingredient series, we’ll be talking all things UK! Follow us for ‘navigating UK Cosmetic Regulations: key updates and insights’.

Laila Manshi